I have wanted to make Bouillabaisse for a long time. This beautiful French fish soup or stew is a dish that I had never eaten or cooked but I've always known that I would love, so it was an automatic choice for my French food week. My sister, a great cook, has been going on about what amazing bouillabaisse she makes, so last night I finally got around to making it. Husband loved it and since it's a really healthy meal and my version of it is not too time consuming, I will be making it soon again.


I have been reading loads of recipes, articles and blog posts about this great dish. I watched a video of Martha Stewart cooking it with a chef buddy of hers. They went on forever rubbing fishbones with tomato paste, roasting stuff, marinating seafood and flambeing things with pernod. I left them to it and summarized the main points of the different recipes to a much simpler process that you don't need all day for. If you're into rubbing fishbones go for it, I'm sure it's fun and fulfilling.

I bought my fish filleted and didn't have any fishbones in the house and unlike my sister I don't keep salmon heads in my freezer. I also didn't have pernod and probably wouldn't have used it after my fennel seed disaster, but even with my shortcuts this turned out a dish I would have proudly served to anyone. Maybe even Martha and her Pernod bottle wielding friend, although they seemed a bit scary with their "I only eat this soup once every three years when I go to this particular restaurant in Antibes", but then they haven't been to this particular eatery in Ealing. "Va va voom" they might exclaim sitting around my IKEA table, "Are you sure you didn't rub the fishbones?" and forget all about that poncey restaurant in Antibes.

The other thing not to get hung up on is the fish. Originally the Provence fishermen or probably their wives made it with the leftover of the day's haul that didn't get sold. Many recipes quote some weird, ugly looking rockfish and scary sounding things like spider crabs, but if you don't have access to or stomach for that kind of seafood a much more familiar selection will do. Just have a mixture of a couple of different types of fish, I would opt for white fish although I did see salmon in some recipes, and some other seafood. I had sea bass, cod, squid, prawns and mussels, all easily found in pretty much any supermarket. It's great to have something with shells on for the dramatic look.


I was going to bake some fresh crusty bread to go with this, but instead I decided to watch a rerun of the TV series Rebecca from the nineties - nothing like a little Gothic drama on a rainy Bank Holiday Monday - so had to resort to those shop-bought half baked ciabatta rolls. Still nice, hot and fresh from the oven.

Bouillabaisse (serves 2)

Half a large leek or a whole small one
Half a yellow onion
Half a fennel bulb
1 carrot
1 celery stick
2 cloves of garlic
3 tomatoes
Zest of an orange
1 heaped tsp of saffron fronds, crushed
Large handful of fresh parsley
A few sprigs of Provencal herbs (e.g thyme, marjoram, oregano)
A small glass of white wine (optional)
750 ml fish stock (the better quality the stock the better the soup)
salt and pepper

Small fillet of cod
Fillet of sea bass
Tube of squid
12-15 king prawns
12-15  mussels
Small red onion
salt
pepper
olive oil
lemon

Cube the fish removing bones and skin and cut the squid to rings, devein the prawns, Add fish, prawns and squid in a bowl, sprinkle with salt, pepper, olive oil and dash of lemon juice. Chop the red onion finely and add to bowl. Mix well and leave to marinade in the fridge while you get on with the broth. Clean the mussels.

Chop all the vegetables. Heat oil in a deep pan. Add leek, onion, fennel, carrot and celery with a sprinkling of salt. Saute on low to medium heat for about 8 minutes. Add the garlic and continue for another 2 minutes. Add the chopped tomatoes, saffron and the chopped herbs, grate in the zest of an orange. At this stage you can add some white wine if you like and let it evaporate a bit. Then add the fish stock. If you happen to have any fishbones or heads chuck them in the pan. Simmer covered for about one hour.


Blend everything with a hand blender or in a blender. (Apparently including the fish bones if you are using. If you have put in a massive fish head I would remove it at this point.) Drain the liquid into a pan through a sieve. Press the veg pulp against the sieve with a ladle to get most of the liquid out.

Check seasoning, add a squirt of lemon if you like. Depending on how much your liquid has reduced you may want to add a little bit of water.

Bring the broth back to boil, add in your fish and seafood according to how long they need to cook. For my selection of fish add the bass, cod and mussels, simmer for 3 minutes, add the prawns and squid and after 2 minutes (or when prawns are done depending on size) take off heat, remove and discard any unopened mussels and serve immediately.

I try to generally eat and cook healthy food. I actually like healthy things like vegetables and fish, salads, soups and rye bread. I don't have much of a sweet tooth, I can have chocolate in the house and I don't immediately need to scoff it all. I also don't like anything deep fried, believe it or not.


I have a bit of a cheese habit though, the harder and fattier the better, gouda, gruyere, emmental, cheddar, edam, manchego... And if you combine it with potatoes somehow or melt it on top of anything, that's me done for. Sometimes I just melt some in the microwave on a plate if I can't think of anything else to put under it. Kind of a quick fondue.

Ok back to the story about my healthy eating habits.

I went through a bit of a crazy time in my late teens when I'd just had enough of years and years of my brothers' oh so funny jokes about my weight. I was always normal weight, but unfortunately the benchmark was my scrawny little sister, the bone bag. When we played Monopoly one of us was a banker. I often wanted to be. I was allowed, if they got to call me the Bank Lardo. If my sister wanted to be banker they'd call her the Bank Moose (she has a bit of a long face). Nice.

At least I could do something about my alleged fat whereas my poor sister was stuck with the long face (she later grew into her face and turned out a beautiful lady).

So to shut them the fuck up I pretty much stopped eating for about 6 months. So that wasn't so healthy. My periods stopped and my parents got very worried. Mum made the school nurse spy on me to make sure I ate something during lunch. And when of course I didn't, the sneaky bitch told my mother. I got over it luckily with no physical or (obvious) mental harm and my brothers shut up about my weight after that. Not because of compassion or kindness, but because even on their scale (!) there was no fat left to joke about.

So anyway ever since then I've been a bit paranoid about putting on weight. Having a reasonably healthy diet and trying to squeeze in a couple of runs (they are jogs really, or limping around with sciatica at the moment, but running just sounds much more impressive) a week seems to be working for me as a balanced way of life. The thing is when you're past your peak in terms of collagen production a few extra pounds actually work in your favour. Facially. Butt wise not so much.

As a wise friend once said, at this age the choice must be made [between butt and face].

But nowadays an added reason to cook healthy food is husband who has an absolutely shit genetic build. He is already on blood pressure medication and I stalk him with a blood pressure mojito - oops autocorrect, I wish there was a blood pressure mojito, it sounds a lot more fun than a monitor which of course is what I stalk him with. For his cholesterol I feed him Benecol spread and yoghurts, and I've switched to a low sodium salt and keep the salt level reasonably low. Although I think if you don't put enough salt you might as well not eat at all.

Nevertheless husband has developed a bit of a belly in my loving care and also maybe over the summer holidays in my mother's loving care. Not much and he exercises a lot, so it is not getting out of control. But to respect his wish to try to slimline the belly a bit I have been even more healthy than normal this week and cooked very light dinners for us. Although then after a very light and healthy dinner he may require a bowl of custard.

Instead of pan-fried fish cakes with potato mash and bread crumbs, which of course are yummy and not particularly unhealthy, I made equally lovely but even more healthy, maybe more burgery than cakey salmon patties with no carbs. Not that I think carbs are particularly bad, good carbs are a great source of energy and fibre, and I am not an advocate for the Atkins diet at all. That diet would definitely kill my husband in no time. So there's an idea for anyone, who's maybe less happily married, a couple of recent real life examples spring to mind, the Scandalous Lady W and the Dutchess. I have been in period drama land lately. Not very happy girls those two. Lovely dresses and jewellery clearly don't make up for an arse for a husband. But rather than eloping with weaselly men who chicken out at the critical moment, the way out of the unhappy marriages might have been bacon and eggs.

Insanely healthy Salmon fishcakes recipe (makes 4) 

440g (4 fillets) salmon
zest of a lemon
1 tbsp honey
2 tbsp chopped fresh dill
2-3 spring onions
salt
lemon pepper
dash of Tabasco or small amount of fresh chopped chilli

Heat the oven to 200C. Chop the salmon. Chop the onion finely. Mix all the ingredients together. If you have time leave in the fridge a while for the flavours to develop, but you can also cook immediately. Form into four patties, place in a lightly greased oven dish. Bake for about 10 minutes, flip over and bake for another 10 minutes. Mine weren't getting any colour so I turned the grill on for the last 5 minutes to brown them a little.